I am not goingto call this one an ultra run. Maybe an adventure run and certainly an ultra hike. I certainly did not run 42 miles. Rather, the distance was covered in a combination of running, hiking, scrambling, and mountaineering (including snow climbing and hanging from a rope over a crevass).
I met Greg at his home at Holladay, UT and we were on the road driving to Wyoming by 4:15PM. We arrived to Elkhart Park about 9:30PM and camped on a flat spot on a nearby Jeep trail. We awoke at 2AM and began running up the trail at 3:30AM. The first several miles went by quickly. We found a shortcut between Miller and Eklund lakes that saved a mile of hiking. The waning moon was almost full so we had nice bright light through the forest. I made my pack as light as possible but it was heavier than what I am conditioned to carry on long runs. (Very sore feet at the and of the day.) At Seneca Lake I just did not want to run very much anymore. The trail into Gannett is rocky the entire way. At the pass before Island Lake we ran and covered ground more quickly but it was difficult for me to have a running mood again. I was fatigued from lack of sleep.
Sunrise over Titcomb Basin was effortlessly spectacular and the entire day, weather-wise, was perfect. We ran more up the basin along the lake shores. Above the lakes we stopped and I made myself a nice Ultragen recovery drink to prepare me for the climb up to Bonney Pass. Never again will I hike up over Bonney Pass without sufficient snow cover. If I ever go back it will be in July, with snow covering all the climbs. The climb up to the pass is miserable, The climb down from the pass is miserable. And we had to repeat it in reverse later in the day.
Down on Dinwoody Glacier Greg and I oohed and ahhed at the fast-running streams of pure water running downhill over the ice. We jumped several open crevasses, some were frighteningly deep. The glacier doesn't care. It will swallow you whole.
We hiked up the lower Gooseneck ridge to were crampons were required to climb further over snow. Finally we arrived at the bergschrund (Wikipedia: Bergschrund:
A bergschrund[1] (from the German for mountain cleft) is a crevasse that forms where the moving glacier ice separates from the stagnant ice or firn above. It is often a serious obstacle for mountaineers, who sometimes abbreviate "bergschrund" to "schrund".)
There was no snowbridge available to cross the schrund. It had collapsed to a narrow platform about 4 feet inside the crevass. To the left of the collapsed bridge was a 30 foot deep pit with a floor of rotten snow and ice and dark holes scatterd about. Immediately obvious, however, was a blue climbing rope, anchored unseen somwhere above on the steep snow slope. I did not think twice, just hopped down, grabbed the rope and walked myself up a slanting, narrow little ramp of snow to the upper lip of the bergschrund. Immediatley after I cleared the upper lip I turned, looked down and wondered how the hell I was I going to climb down. Greg decided to look for an alterative route up on some rocks. I carefully climbed up the 55 degree slope, using my ice axe and kicking steps. At the top I met two climbers descending the peak. They were getting ready to descend the rope. I told them to look for Greg because several minutes had passed and I could not see him anywhere below. As they descened Greg came up and they let him pass. He never did find an alternative way up.
We hiked the remainder of the ridge and reached the summit 10.5 hours after beginning our journey. Pretty slow actually but 2 hours faster than my climb up two years ago. We got photos and video of the summit, ate lunch, then began the descent. My right knee began to hurt and I recognized it as ITB inflamation. The pain became more intense the more we hiked down over the rocks. Above the crux, the slope with the bergschrund, I was anxious to get down. I grabbed the rope and walked myself down, kicking steps. A slip would have been disasterous. At the upper edge of the schrund I got on my belly and hung my feet over the edge. I had to trust the rope with all my weight. Pointing my toes into the snow wall I kicked the front spikes of the crampons while lowering myself. It was quick and what a relief it was to stand on the collapsed snowbridge. I hopped out and then motioned to Greg to begin his descent. He came down as I had, using the rope. I guided him down the drop from the top of the schrund and with all that nonsense behind us we continued our descent of the mountain. It was getting late.
Re-crossing the glacier going uphill was slow. My feet soaked in the slushy melting snow. The climb up to Bonney Pass was miserable but shorter than the other side. On the pass crest we ate some food, dreading the descent back to the top of Titcomb basin. I repeat, I will never again climb Bonney Pass when there is no snow. At the base we filled up on water and I drank some Ultragen to see me through the next several miles. In a few minutes I had more energy than I had all day. I began to run. I wanted to get to Island lake before sunset. I was feeling rather well and the running gave me hope to be out in 4 to 5 hours. Greg, however, was not feeling well. Near the lower Titcomb lake we set into a brisk walking pace. We did reach Island Lake well before sunset but I knew it would be a long walk out. We switched on headlamps at the pass above Little Seneca lake. Eleven miles over that kind of terrain is a very long walk, and with each mile my energy and endurance faded. Greg never seemed to get that burst of energy he was hoping for, and he even had to vomit at the side of the trail. For my part, the IT band continued to cause pain to the side of my knee.
We arrived at last to the trailhead. It was 2AM. We drove to our camp spot and both fell asleep within minutes. When we got up later it was well past dawn.
I wore my GoPro camera the entire way and got hours of video.
On the way out I had determined ideas of never going back to Gannet. Bagging that summit in one day comes with a large price. If I ever change my mind it I will require certain conditions.
They say we are supposed to listen to our bodies. My body said sleep in. I really needed it. I hated missing out on the action in Henry's Fork today (see JUN's, Scott Wesemann's and JSH's blogs later) but I wasn't primed for it. As a consolation I finally did that Summit run up to Lone Peak. Probably my 15th time up there and this one was far and away my fastest summit and round trip. I started from the Orson Smith TH and took the Cherry canyon trail to the Bear Canyon junction. This route goes to the Outlaw Cabin and by-passes the cirque. There are shorter routes to the peak, such as the Jacob's Ladder route, but for the sake of getting there from the valley, that would be cheating. Anyway, I wanted the miles.
It was nearly noon when I started. Hot. Made sure to stay hydrated and take S-caps. Another reason I chose this route instead of the shorter Jacob's Ladder is there is fresh spring water in Bear canyon, and I needed that water both on the way up and down.
Summit in 2:55. Not super fast but as I mentioned before I have never been up there in under 4.5 hours so a new benchmark for me. There are guys around here who could easily take the same route and be on top in 1.5 hours.
Retraced the same route down and got to the car in total of 4:39 moving time. Among my peers there are guys, like JUN, who have a much faster downhill who could run down faster and clear 4 hours. Plus, it was very hot on the descent. I would like to go back on a morning and go faster when it is cool.
I continue to show up in photos and video clips of other Speedgoat runners: Shirtless guy at 1:38 & 1:43 & 2:02 is MVH.
After work drove straight to West Ridge TH. Legs still mucho tired from Lone Peak. Wanted to get to the top before my Rush album ended. Made it with a few seconds of the last song to spare. (Bonus point to anyone who knows what album has EVERYDAY GLORY as the last song.)
Time to Summit: 57:21
My god some guy recently hit the summit in 33 minutes. [Actually I just saw that was via Church Fork fro the road, which has less vertical and maybe is a shorter distance.]
Ran the backside of Grandeur to Church Fork. Babes out on the trail with dogs probably given to them by their boyfriends. No snakes on Pipeline.
Nice cold Ultragen recovery drink immediately at the car.
One of the biggest mountains around. I have been up there several times but this was my fastest time up and down. Experimented with a different way up after the beaver pond. Was nice to be on familiar terrain coming down. My most favorite downclimb around here is the ledges on the descent from the Twins to the saddle.
Running opens up a lot of possibilities in the mountains. Stuff that a few years ago would take 6 to 8 hours I now get done in half the time.
Crossed paths with a moose. He turned and glared at me. No fear in those animals. On the way down the upper bowl a little owl circled me a few times. I wondered if it was going to try to carry me off. Found cheap sunglasses on the way down. I am always finding crap in the mountains. On Lone Peak I found a knit hat and a Patagonia shirt. One of my favorite shirts is a long-sleeve Buffalo Run shirt I found at a trailhead a few years back.
Utah Triple Crown: One Day Run of Three highest peaks in Utah - King's, South King's, Gilberto
Fastest Known Time (barely)
I have desired to do the Triple Crown for a coupla years. I gotta give credit to JUN (Craig Lloyd) for doing the legwork (literally) for establishing the fastest combination of peaks and routes between. Last month he ran a crazy fast time of 8h29m for the Triple Crown and held the fastest known time for summiting all three peaks. Until today.
I left home saturday morning at 4:30AM and drove 2.5 hours to Henry's Fork campground in the high Uintas. It was about 8:15 when I started my watch at the fencepost and began running up the trail. I tried to move as quickly as possible with a McDonald's #2 meal bouncing around in my tummy. I averaged a 10 minute mile up to mile 4, then slowed down a bit as the rocky trail gains some altitude just before Elkhorn Crossing. I arrived at the bridge in 56 minutes.
The run up to Dollar Lake was pleasantly quick and never having actually been to the lake I had to ask directions of a lady on the trail, then feel my way to it and around. Past the lake I began the upward climb to Gilbert Peak, Utah's 3rd highest. Steep. Slow. Up on the plateau I hiked steadily in the direction of the summit, also never having been to this particular mountain. I had prepared myself for the false summits so I was pleased when I finally found the true summit sooner than I had expected. I arrived there in 2h42m. I did not stop, just turned around. Jumping down through the rocks I was bored and talking to myself in a funny Dracula accent (First peak of the Treeple Crown!) when I was startled to hear the voice of a nearby hiker calling to me. Kept moving down to find the steep chute into Henry's Fork basin. [Note to self, do not ever climb up this chute. It would be a real sufferfest. Ask Scott W. and JSH.]
Down in the basin and back on the trail I stashed some clothing and a water bottle near a spring that I would utilize on the way out. I chose to go straight up to Gunsight pass and not take the freaking switchbacks. I got up and over the shortcut to Anderson flat in 15 minutes then proceeded to Anderson pass where I passed a dozen hikers on the ridge up to King's summit. I reached the summit in 5:02. Stayed less than a minute and descended to South King's. South King's summit at 5:27. Did not stop, just circled the small rock tower and began the hike back up to King's. There were some suspicious looking clouds overhead and I wanted to get off the mountain ASAP. Also, I knew that to get the FKT I needed to keep moving. It was gonna be close.
I chose not to go back to the summit of King's, traversing a hundred feet lower. I then decided not to go back down the hiker's route, and angled down the face of the mountain instead. I re-crossed Anderson plateau and arrived at Gunsight pass at 6 hours 42 minutes. I found my stashed clothing and made myself an UltraGen drink, then banged out the last 9 or so miles back to the trailhead. Mostly I managed to keep my pace below ten minute miles. I knew I did not have much room for error if I wanted to come in under Craig's time. I can in fact claim a victory but only by a tiny margin. Craig's time last month was 8 hours 29 minutes and I got to the fence post at 8 hours 26 minutes and 53 seconds. I felt like I was chasing JUN all day out there. Our splits and total time are virtually identical. I have a complete understanding of the effort he made last month. It was no easy thing.
Overall I felt terrific all day. Weather-wise it was bluebird. On to the next adventure.
I am sure I broke a toe. It is black and blue. It is one of those useless toes however, so, no biggie. I was running swiftly down a rocky trail from Brighton to Midway and slammed my right foot into the side of a berm. Later, I turfed it on same rocky trail, directly behind three fast running dudes. They heard the wipeout and turned to see me get up and run again. Minor cuts and scrapes.
It was a preview of the last 24 miles of Wasatch 100 Mile Endurance Run. Went with a group all prepping for the run. When a trio of three faster dudes came through about mile 10 I stayed with them to the end. Our very own FRBer Kendall was the shirtless dude. I usually am shirtless, too, but opted not to today. The Nathan hydration vest would have produced a seriously dorky tan/burn line. Lots of runners out on that trail today. It's gonna be epic.
Millcreek Loop: Dog Lake, Reynolds, Desolation Lake
Upper Millcreek Canyon is a paradise. Really. It is what my heaven will be. I started from the Big Water trail and ran up to Dog Lake, made a side trip to Reynolds peak, then back down and then up to Desolation Lake. From Deso I followed the crest trail to the top of Millcreek Canyon then connected to Great Western Trail back to the trailhead. It gets hella dark up in there at night. Fortunately the big shiny moon was like a spotlight on me.
With Greg J. We took it real easy and relaxed-like. On the summit we saw the storm coming and hauled butt back across the ridge. Not a minute too early when lightning began to flash around us and on the peak where we had just been. We huddled under a rock a hundred or so feet below the ridge and got soaked. I was terrified, afraid to go out in the open for fear of getting struck. Waited for the storm to pass then made a break down to the lake. Made it back to the car without headlamp.
